Final Week in Vietnam
It’s hard to believe it’s been almost three months since we landed in Vietnam. It went by so quickly, and I can tell already how much I’m going to miss it.
And of course, it’s just in the past few weeks that we’ve begun meeting people to hang out with and who I wish we’d met earlier so that we could have gotten to know them better. But perhaps we just need to push ourselves a bit more to start doing this earlier in future places…….
Or perhaps we just need to come back to Saigon.
I got such a good feeling from this city the moment we landed, and I feel more at home here the longer we stay. The energy feels relaxed and ambitious at the same time, and the people we have met are so friendly once you get to know them a little bit, even if they are not quite as full of smiles up-front as in Thailand. And the city just feels expansive to me……..I thought I would miss the Vancouver mountains, but I don’t find that’s the case, and I love the open horizon and how the city seems to go on from district to district, connected by a never-ending flow of scooters.
I could definitely see myself coming back here to stay for much longer……..
It has been a struggle for me more recently to feel at peace with not knowing what I want to do career-wise in the future if we continue to travel long-term, but I am practicing sitting with this discomfort and having faith that things will work out as they should and that answers will come when they are meant to, which was part of what this trip was for for me in the first place. It’s funny how my brain can forget that, and become frustrated that I don’t have a plan already…… So I am trying to live in the moment more and worry less, and of course there is no shortage of new experiences and sights in Asia for me to practice this with.
We are off to China next! Shanghai for two weeks, and then we are still deciding on the next city……..
I am sad to be leaving Vietnam just as it’s starting to feel more like home, but I am excited to explore China. And Saigon will be here if we ever decide to come back……..

Sunny view from a mall food court.

Walking into town not far from our apartment. The volume of goods carried on scooters or pushed by hand never fails to amaze me.

Walking around town at night, looking for dinner. It wasn’t the most walkable area, with scooters often coming uncomfortably close on either side. This is quite common though. We rarely see people walking.

I love the common use of hammocks, and the many places people find to put them.

Walking along one of the rivers in town. It was really nice to have the walking path and flowers, and we did see some people using the exercise equipment.

The river at dusk. It was really nice sitting at a cafe overlooking it.

One of our favourite parts of town, Turtle Lake, and one of its many cafes.

The War Remnants Museum. A mix of horrifying, heartbreaking, and then heartwarming to see how much has been forgiven and repaired, in the country and between people, since then.

District 7, Koreatown. Such cute (and quiet) streets, stationery stores and cafes.

On the two-hour drive to our Mekong Delta tour. Our driver stopped to see if we wanted to buy snakes or rats from these young boys to eat later.

Our Mekong Delta boat tour! We were with Spanish, Swiss, and Vietnamese tourists. It was a wonderful day.

The Cai Be floating market. We arrived too late in the morning to see its busyness, but it was neat seeing the boats and the people who live and sell in them.

In a row-boat (sampan) to navigate the shallower waters on our way to lunch.

The women rowers looked so elegant in their matching purple tops, and their balance and strength amazed me.

John and I took bikes around a small island in the Delta. It was so neat seeing the small huts and gardens, and wonderful having quiet paths with no scooters in sight.

These railing-less bridges into people’s gardens were everywhere on the island, and people would ride bikes and scooters over them! I was amazed at first, but then considering the traffic the scooters and bikes are able to navigate in the city, it made sense.

At a cafe playing games to help evaluate a team-building event organized by one of our new friends, an entrepreneur from the States but of Vietnamese descent. We had a lot of fun talking to his employees and finding out more about Saigon. One of many moments I will miss.
Hanoi
On June 4th, John and I flew two hours north to the capital, Hanoi, for nine days to explore more of this intriguing country and to give my friend some space in Ho Chi Minh to finish her teaching year.
What a different feel within one country! Just as we noticed moving from city to city in Thailand. Despite being the capital, it feels much less metropolitan and almost more like a very large village……..John, who knows more about this topic, says he can feel the communist influence a lot more here. It definitely has a more traditional, austere vibe. It also feels less busy and the roads (and motorbike traffic) are less dense, which has been good for my roadside jitteriness.
For our first four nights we stayed at an AirBnB with the host, Mrs. Tin, who was a lovely middle-aged Vietnamese woman whose daughter is doing her MBA at Columbia University in New York. She was extremely hospitable and it was neat sharing a home with someone local. She made us delicious sticky rice and had lots of recommendations for things to do. Unfortunately, both John and I were feeling under the weather so we didn’t end up doing too much for the first few days.
For our last five nights, we are at a different AirBnB run by a thirty-something couple from the Netherlands. It is in a neat, very un-touristy neighbourhood surrounded by other houses and many narrow, winding streets. Our private terrace and huge open windows make it feel like we are sleeping outdoors. It’s been wonderful so far.
As we tend to do, we have been enjoying exploring random restaurants, shops and different neighbourhoods, but we did pay entrance fees to see the Temple of Literature and the 65th floor Lotte Observation Deck, and I’m realizing that some things may be popular with tourists for a reason……..we were not disappointed. We fly back to Ho Chi Minh today, and I am looking forward to the cooler temperatures once more (it’s been above 40C most days!) but definitely feel like I could explore this city for much longer.

City view from our 19th floor AirBnB with Mrs. Tin. This view from our bedroom made staying home sick much more bearable.

Another great view. Mrs. Tin, our host, swims in the public pool several days per week.

Exploring the Old Quarter. So many neat gift shops and cafes.

Roadside haircut. I see these a lot, but am not brave enough to try one………

A residential area we stumbled across by going down tiny alleys.

One of many cute cafes we have spent afternoons in, reading and drinking Vietnamese coffee and smoothies.

So many colourful and animated streets.

Hoan Kiem Lake, with the Turtle Tower in the centre.

Exploring more small roads and off-the-beaten-path neighbourhoods.

Enjoying another roadside restaurant. We order best when the menu has photos or we can just point at what we want, like we could here. For $2.50, it was a delicious, filling meal.

The Temple of Literature, where many parts date back to 1070. It was surreal to think about, especially being used to young Canada.

Our second AirBnB, run by Quirien and Resy from the Netherlands. It almost feels like we’re sleeping outdoors, and the breeze is wonderful in the heat.

We stumbled across this B-52 war monument blocks from our AirBnB, in the middle of a residential neighbourhood. John was in heaven.

The colourful neighbourhood near our second AirBnB.

Fishing in West Lake, the largest lake in Hanoi and around which we’ve learned most of the expats choose to stay. There are many neat stores and cafes.

Another cute neighbourhood along West Lake.

On the 65th floor of the Lotte Observation Deck Sky Walk, the first sky walk built in SE Asia………definitely a little nervous.
First Two Weeks in Vietnam
After our month in Thailand, we have now been in Vietnam for two weeks, and will be here for ten more. I’m excited to stay in one place for even longer to try to get to know it more, as I felt I was just starting to get comfortable in Thailand at the end of the month before we left.
We have only been in two places in Vietnam so far – Phu Quoc, the island John talked about in his last post, and now Ho Chi Minh City, staying with my high school friend and her boyfriend in their beautiful apartment in a very expat-y part of the city. It has been wonderful seeing old friends on this exotic-feeling trip.
Like John, I have also noticed how different Vietnam feels compared to Thailand, which is to be expected but is interesting to notice. It definitely feels less discovered by the outside world. The tourists and expats I do see have a different vibe to them, as if they are here for more serious business, and somehow seem more mature, not just here to party and vacation or seek the good life like it often felt like in Thailand. And the local people seem different……..not as full of smiles and open as in Thailand, and even in the large city, I get many more stares by both men and women, or so it feels. It is beautiful and exotic though, and each district (the city is divided into 24) promises so many things to explore……..a huge Chinatown, Little Japan, downtown, the War Remnants Museum, and so many small streets and alleys that feel much less explored by foreigners than in Bangkok.
We were very close to a possibly fatal scooter accident three nights ago, and it shook us all up greatly, and reminded me that developing countries are not simply affordable, undiscovered paradises……..the response time for help was infinitely slower than it would have been back home, and no ambulance ever came, just a pickup truck for a young man obviously suffering severe head and spine injuries. It was a wake-up call for me from over-idealizing an exotic, affordable way of life. No country is perfect, and the affordable cost of living comes with sacrifices in other areas of life.
But aside from this tragic night I am feeling very relaxed and also invigorated by this exotic and different country, and am looking forward to exploring it more over the next 2.5 months.

JW Marriott Resort, Phu Quoc, where we stayed (for free) for two nights with a high school friend of mine. A shock from our usual travel style……..

The French Colonial-style resort. Not fully opened yet, it often felt eerily empty and quiet.

The fanciest breakfast buffet I’ve ever had, and included with my friend’s Marriott points. It was our breakfast and lunch combined each day!

Dinner with Katherine, a great high school friend now visiting from the UK. We found a stall just outside the resort to save some money, and the soup was delicious, as has been all our food in Vietnam so far.

It was a very relaxing two days.

Children playing in An Thoi, the harbour town in Phu Quoc where we continued to stay for a week after the resort.

Walking around An Thoi. We loved going for walks and exploring the small alleys and exotic produce stalls.

The lovely woman who ran our An Thoi hotel, who invited us to eat with her family on our last day.

Ho Chi Minh City, known as the land of scooters. There is no subway or skytrain and cars are very expensive.

The children seem much more comfortable than me on the bikes. The government has enforced helmet-wearing to help with the high traffic mortality rate, but I haven’t yet seen a child wearing a helmet.

Part of downtown Ho Chi Minh. It feels very clean here.

Along with the national flag, the Communist Party of Vietnam hammer and sickle flag is commonly seen too.

Entering the 100m section of the Cu Chi Tunnels available to our tour. It’s impossible to imagine what life was like for those during the war. We had to crouch, or even scoot on our backs, to make it through, and we learned that some fighters would stay in these for weeks to months at a time.

Examples of traps used by the Viet Cong during the war. It was a lot to take in.

My friend’s apartment in District 2 of Ho Chi Minh, where we will be for most of our stay to look after their cats while they travel. It’s a wonderful trade.

So good seeing Nicole for longer than one day over Christmas.

The cats are warming up to us……..
Bangkok
We’ve been in Bangkok now for one week, and it’s been so interesting to see how different it feels compared to Phuket in the south and Lampang in the North. But I’m sure it is like this in every country – a difference so large between small towns and big cities that it can feel like you’re in a different country altogether.
Locals do not ask where we are from or take extra time to speak with us as they seem much more busy and of course are used to people from all over the world coming to their shops on a regular basis unlike in Lampang. The one time I was excited that a local wanted to talk to us it turned out he was trying to scam us into a taxi-tour for the day.
But overall I love Bangkok so far……..it has the energy and things to do and see like other large cities I’ve been to, yet still feels laid back. Even the tourists add to the energy in a positive way for me! Everyone seems so happy and relaxed, trying to enjoy themselves on their vacations.
I like the city’s blend of feeling old and authentic but also modern, trendy, creative and artistic, especially in some of the modern architecture and how the malls are done (of course I have been exploring the malls). I feel like I could explore this city for months and never get bored.
Some of the highlights for me:
- Spending a day walking through Chatuchak Market looking at the huge range of things from street food to souvenirs, cheap clothes and used books to trendy clothes and accessories all so different from back home.
- Sitting and enjoying the river and city view from the rooftop restaurant at our Riverview Guesthouse.
- Walking through the windy alleys near the guesthouse and getting a glimpse into the lives of the families who live in the small rooms attached to their different businesses.
- Reading a book I found at the Phuket airport called Only 13, a memoir by a former child prostitute in Thailand, and gaining a different perspective and deeper understanding of Thailand and its culture and the options available for poor, under-educated females.
- Exploring the different modern malls and seeing the different spending habits and tastes of wealthy locals and tourists compared to back home.
- Walking through less touristy neighbourhoods and trying to get a sense of what city life is like for locals in Bangkok.
- Giving myself permission to do what I feel like each day, even if it is just staying in and reading or going (window)shopping, and working on not feeling guilty about missing out on some sights I tell myself I ‘should’ be seeing.
We just got to an AirBnB in a new part of town (Huai Kwang, chosen as it is supposed to be a neat neighbourhood but less touristy) and I am excited to explore, and relax, in Bangkok for another full week. I will be sad to leave this vibrant, friendly country though……..it feels like somewhere I could easily come back to, perhaps for much longer.

Relaxing on the rooftop restaurant at Riverview Guesthouse.

View from the rooftop restaurant at Riverview Guesthouse. Interesting blend of old and new, poor and wealthy.

Our room at Riverview Guesthouse, where we were for five nights. At $45 per night, our most expensive place yet, but one John enjoyed last time he was in Thailand.

I loved how the guesthouse was in the middle of a maze of narrow alleys.

Colourful street near our guesthouse.

The Talad Noi neighbourhood we were in, known to have many car part businesses where engines are taken apart and resold.

A residence in one of the alleys near our guesthouse.

Chatuchak Market, one of the largest in the world. We spent hours and barely saw half of it.

Used book section in Chatuchak Market.

Nicer clothing section of Chatuchak Market. John bought three shirts for only dollars each.

Just one of the fancy malls. Definitely not in Lampang anymore……..I love how creative the spaces are though, and not just opulent, which they also are.

Siam Centre. Even the food courts (and IHOPs) are interesting and beautiful.

Taking the city bus is much more interesting than the subway, and much cheaper.

Our second place in Bangkok, where we will be for our last week. An AirBnB in the Huai Kwang neighbourhood for $34 a night, a good deal in Bangkok especially for a place so central and well-reviewed.

City view from our 8th-floor balcony. Very different neighbourhood than the guesthouse.

Market street near our AirBnB. A very busy night market later on. And durian! Which I have grown to like.

Our pool, where I will be relaxing and reading as much as I can……..
South to North
Yesterday we took a 2-hour plane ride from the south of Thailand, Phuket, to Chiang Mai in the north, and then a 1.5-hour very comfortable (and $4!) bus ride southeast to a smaller town, Lampang, which we read most people pass through on their way to Chiang Mai, the main tourist attraction in northern Thailand. We chose it as a way to try to experience a Thailand less affected by tourists, and perhaps as an even more relaxed town than the beach towns of Phuket. I realized I am not a beach town person! I get too hot lying on the beach for long, and feel guilty if I’m not on the beach…….and also found that the towns themselves didn’t feel as interesting after a little while, as they felt very catered to tourists and not quite as much of a glimpse inside a foreign culture like I am most interested in when traveling.
We just arrived yesterday afternoon but so far Lampang is just what we wanted. Much less touristy, tons of neat-looking restaurants filled with locals, and lots of little side streets that we can’t wait to walk down and explore.
We are here for eight days at a really neat guesthouse that we found from our Lonely Planet book which has all the quaint character that I love. It is very peaceful right by the river and is almost empty given that this is the tourist down season (ie. even more hot and humid). A warm and outgoing local woman we met on a taxi yesterday told us that eight days is way too long to spend in Lampang and thought we were crazy to want to do so, and according to the guesthouse owner most people stay for much shorter, but this is exactly the Thailand I want to see, and eight days sounds like the perfect length of time to get to relax and discover this small(er) town before heading to Bangkok.

Taxi ride through Chiang Mai from the airport to the bus station to leave for Lampang. Much more fun than the sedans we’ve been in so far! I still haven’t gotten the courage to ride on a scooter yet……..

Bus to Lampang. $4 for 1.5 hours, and easy to book and navigate.

Pick-up taxi ride to our guesthouse, where we spoke with the local woman who warned us against our 8-day stay.

Riverside Guesthouse! $29 per night including a wonderful breakfast, and very empty this time of year (it’s 38 C today, the hot summer season).

Cozy foyer all to ourselves.

Beautiful, peaceful dining area right by the river.

Breakfast by the river.

Reading by the river. I feel like I’m staying at an expensive resort, not an affordable guesthouse.

Really neat collection of old cars and motorcycles. I need to find out more about the history of this place……..the owner is Caucasian but I’m not yet sure from where, and has lived here for 30 years. She said this was originally her home before turning it into a guesthouse ten years ago.

Motorcycle shed, full of old spotless Harleys and paraphernalia.

Walking around town last night to find dinner.

It has a very different feel from Phuket. Barely any tourists, and much calmer.

Temple at night.

Wonderful restaurant we found. Lots of locals and very little English spoken but we enjoyed the most wonderful service and food.

My chicken and basil leaves. So much food for $1.50!
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